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Topics - Thantos

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1
News, Rumours and Trading / Ad-Mech Army Released
« on: March 31, 2015, 12:33:54 PM »
http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Warhammer-40-000?N=102296+4294967192&Nu=product.repositoryId&qty=12&sorting=phl&view=table&_requestid=1059625



Wonderful! Im very happy that GW are releasing something that expands the 40k universe again, rather than just another non-fluffy out of place marine flyer or unit that should never exist.
Love these models and i cant wait to see what other units are in the army. Combined with the FW pieces, could be a nice force!

2
Hobby / Useful Hobby Sites or Products
« on: December 04, 2014, 12:04:01 PM »
Lets share a few of the cool site which lurk in my browser bookmarks folder ;D Feel free to add your own. But note these sites are for tools, extras or hobby products and not miniature manufacturer's websites. ;)

Scale Hardware. Rivets, bolts, all sorts of really fine detail additions to your minis. Not cheap, but amazing quality and detail for scratchbuilders.
http://www.scalehardware.com/

Antenocitis Workshop It says "Scratch builders paradise" and it doesn't lie! Get all your plasticard, foamboard, textured sheets, brass rod and plastic tube (i like the chekerplate pattern sheets) also scribing panels on minis? http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/wargaming-materials-tools/wargames-modeling-tools/scribing.html very cool.
http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/wargaming-materials-tools.html

Masq Mini Make chains, tubes fur and chainmail quickly with their gadgets. Although the best bit is their beesputy. I like grey firm, wonderful to sculpt with, best i have tried.
http://masqmini.com/index.php/bees-sculpting/tools-n-stuff.html

Ampulla We store lots of weird liquids, cleaners and stuff as hobbyists. Maybe more useful for me, as i have too many types of liquid resins to store, but all your pots and bottle needs are sorted here. I like the glass apothecary vials... well because if i wasnt a chaplain, id be an apothecary :D
http://www.ampulla.co.uk/default.asp?

Maragon Want to try some casting? In plaster, resin or other stuff. Plaster doesnt need any equipment if you are doing large scenery and shake it (-shake it, shake it, shake it...)
Cheapest around for UK. Shame about their web design though
http://www.maragon.co.uk/arts-and-crafts.html#Print1

Polycraft Polystyrene everything! BFG planets? Walls, buildings, necron pyramid scenery? Its all here, its as cheap and anything and its light to post.
http://www.polycraftsupplies.co.uk/index.php

RDG Tools Airbrush sir? Get one cheap here. Compressors are great and will last (ive had 3 from them) and the airbrushes are good starter ones to see if you like it, can upgrade the actual brush later on. Loads of other cool tools there too.
http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/AIR_BRUSHES_AND_COMPRESSORS.html

MDC Mr Hobby Paints Laqure based metallic paints for amazing metals (and killing brushes) thin with Mr Hobby thinner not water. The best realistic metallics ever, from japan! :D I cant express how good the metals are, you just have to try a pot!
http://www.mr-hobby.com/itemDetail.php?iId=137

Micro Miniatures LEDs and lighting mods for your minis! As small as 1.8mm LEDs!
https://www.microminiatures.co.uk

Ema Model Supplies For tools, materials, metal casting equipment etc lots of cool stuff
http://www.ema-models.co.uk/index.php/

3
News, Rumours and Trading / SLAP Minis - 28mm Scale ...PONIES?!
« on: April 05, 2014, 11:30:17 PM »
Thought i better post here since a % of our members are nuts pony fans.

Continuing with their pony themed releases, SLAP mini are doing evil ponies now.. why you ask? ... So your heroic ponies have someone to fight of course!!

On kickstarter now
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1835446295/the-evil-ponies-evil-ponies-for-table-top-gaming

Im not a huge fan. But even ill admit the "Ponies of the Apocalypse" concept looks cool - more so since they seem a little chaos god themed too.

4
Whats annoying? Those sellers on ebay who list a load of rare and out of production forgeworld miniatures in one go, cast with air bubbles in the wrong colour! Or the seller with 28 listings for Dreadnought Autocannons all conveniently undercoated black...
Stop doing it! Trying to get rich selling dodgy 1 part resin castings devalues everyone's miniatures, pisses off the buyer and makes the recaster money they just dont deserve.

On ebay you can report an item if its counterfeit with the "Report item" to the lower right hand side. Problem is; ebay don't pay attention or do anything unless a certain amount of people report the same item! If one person reports it, its not grounds to remove the item. 10 People? Suddenly worth looking into!

So with the power of community we can stop them! If you spot a sure and blatant recaster on ebay, post here with item details. If other members agree with you that its a recast, they can report the item too and we can do something about people selling junk to the masses! :D



Ebay Seller Name:
Item ID:
Url:
Copyright Crime:
Evidence:
Report As: Copyright and Trademark > Counterfeit Item or Authenticity Disclaimer > Counterfeit, Fake or Replica Items



Our reported Items Removed: 0

Thought for the Day: Bad recasting begets retribution.

5


Welcome to the Reclusiam, Brother. Here you will learn the myriad techniques of brush-mastery which will help set you on the path of achieving pretty painted miniatures.

Contents -

1. Dry Blending.
2. Advanced Human Flesh.
3. Edge Highlights
4. Layered Highlights
5. Blended Highlights and Shades
6. Washes for Shading
7. Drybrushing
8. True Metallic Metallics
9. Blacklining
10. Off Source Lighting
11. Bone
12. Standard Human Flesh
13. On Source Lighting
14. Non Metallic Metallics 1 - Blades
15. Fur
16. Tyranid Striated Carapace
17. Tabletop Tau Skin
18. Prepping Metal Minis
19  Gemstones
20. Pinning Models
21. TO House Chapter Rosen Knights TT Standard
22. Undead Flesh
23. NMM Blades - 2 White Metal
24. ...


Citadel Colour Sheet
Citadel / Vallejo Comparason Sheet

Ok so I’m going to do a sort of series covering a few painting techniques and methods, mainly aimed at the competent beginner or novice painter, but some more advanced stuff too. Things like drybrushing, wetbrushing, washing and glazes, blending, highlights, extreme edge highlights. Hopefully should help out anyone wanting to try something new or just re-cap old methods.




GW= Games Workshop
Mini= Miniature
VGC= Vallejo Game colour
VMC= Vallejo model colour
Reaper= Reaper master series paints
CdA= Coat d'arms paints
Mantic= Mantic Games Company
Vents= Small spines of unwanted metal on metal minis to be cut away.
Mould Lines= The small line that usually seperates a mini in half where the two pieces of the mould join.
Flash= Excess metal or resin due to imperfection in the mould or added by the casters to aid the casting process.
Tags= Tags are added to metal or resin minis to join small pieces together as one part. The small pieces should be cut off and the tag discarded.
TT= Table top
Kitchen Towel= Wipe away excess paint from your brush on it.
Brushes= To paint with .. nuff said. Buy a selection, sable hair mostly. The GW ones are perfect. Drybrushes can be synthetic if desired.
NMM= Non metalic metalic
TMM= True metalic metalic
SENMM= Sky Earth non metalic metalic
Striated= Small uniform lines or groves over the surface of an object.
OSL= On source lighting
SW Grey = Space Wolf Grey
OFSL= Off source lignting
SM= Space Marine
Pallet= Mix your paints with water and each other upon it.


1.[anchor]post_dryblending[/anchor]

Dry blending.
[anchor]#dryblending[/anchor]

Awesomeness: * * * * /5
Difficulty: * * * * /5





Dry blending is the easiest type of blending to do on your minis. With a bit of practise it can look really stunning on all sorts of minis. The real trick is the application of paint and having patience. Blending is subtle, its going to take a few layers of paint until you start noticing any real effects.
Ok first off lets get together your painting equipment. You don’t need anything unusual for dry blending, just what you should always be using when painting.
Here is a checklist.

What you need:
Brushes; basecoat brush, standard brush, detail brush (if you are blending a small area). Don’t use synthetic brushes, the Games workshop ones are great quality and value for how they perform. I’d recommend them to any mini painter.
Pallet. A pallet can be any clean surface that you mix paint on, I use a segmented plastic pallet, you can use a tile, old plate, piece of plastic or even the pallet that Games Workshop sells.
Water. A water pot of fresh tap water to water down and dilute your paints. You should never be applying paint directly from the pot, I know it covers well, I know watering down paints seems like a lot of hassle, but watering down paints means you can achieve much better quality miniatures and the sooner you get into the habit of doing so, the better. (It is also is essential when blending.)
Kitchen Roll. A piece of kitchen roll folded into 4 is perfect for wiping away excess paint on your brush, applying a saturated brush to the miniature will make the paint run where you don’t want it, pool in the recesses and generally make you have less control over it.
Foam from a Blister Pack A couple of pieces of these are perfect for drying you brush with after you have washed it in your water.
Miniature. I recommend space marines ;) (because I love them) but I supooooose other armies will do as well :P.


Ok so now you are sorted, you have your equipment, you are sitting at your desk, music going, relaxed, mini’s ready and eager to paint. Perfect.

Method:

Ok first off, prime your mini. You can do this with a spray paint (go outside, spray) or with a brush on paint. I actually prefer brush on primer for 28mm minis because its smoother, you only have to tidy up spray primer afterwards with a brush anyway, and I live in the UK where it stereotypically rains a lot – not great for spray painting outside.
I use grey primer most of the time, because my style of painting involves working with midtones (not the dark shades, or the bright highlights, but the mid colour) and then applying both shades and highlights. Many people use black primer and then gradually work upwards lighter. Some people use white. It depends on your army, I do use all three depending on what I’m painting. As a general rule, if you are painting a bright figure like a White Scars Space marine, it makes no sense to prime it black then spend 3 days adding enough layers to it to get it to white. SO PRIME IT WHITE TO START WITH! If you are painting a batch of troops with a darker scheme, most minis fit this category, prime it black. If you are doing a one off showcase piece and have a weird painting style like me, prime it grey. :D
Ok, so have we primed the mini our chosen colour? Good.

Mine is “Grey Primer” from Coat ‘darms (the company that made Games workshops paints in the 90s).


You may have noticed I’m using a strip of plasti card rather than a model. This is so you can see what I’m doing more clearly; of course you are going to use a mini and not waste time painting plastic strips (although it is a good way to practise your blending skillz…)

Ok now take a selection of paints that you are going to blend with. Start by picking a midtone. I’m using GW Mechrite Red for this example.



Ok now pick a couple of highlight colours, in my case, blood red and blazing orange. (see the transition of colours going on here?) And also some shade colours, in my case bestial brown and scorched brown. If you cant think of a highlight colour, add a little bleached bone to your midtone, this will usually do. If you cant think of a shade, add a little scorched brown to your midtone.
Ideally however you want to pick colours like these above.
Some examples of colour choices.
Blue: Regal blue+ Scorched brown> Imperial blue > Ultramarines blue> Ultramarines blue+ Ice blue.
Red: Colours above.
Green: Dark Angles Green> Knarlock Green> Snot Green>Goblin Green > Scorpion Green.

Right, got your colours. More painting, less talking, I know, I know.
I’m starting with the midtone as a basecoat, this means I’ll work upwards to the highlights, then backwards with the shades. If you undercoated black you can start with the darkest shade colour and work upwards from that, lighter. Not advise by me, but hey. You can also start with your brightest highlight if you undercoated white, and if you have a few marbles missing. Again not advised by me.
As I said before I like working with midtones, so that’s how I’m going to show you this.

Water down your midtone to your as a basecolour first on your pallet, look at the consistency of mine.

Mmmm diluted.

Apply about 2 or three coats of basecolour, waiting for each one to dry in between, to the area of your mini that you want to blend.


Nice eh? A boring flat colour. Now we are going to start blending it up to the highlights. The next paint in my line (scroll up an check the line :P) is blood red.
So mix a bit of this blood red into your midtone which is already on your pallet (we don’t want to let this dry up on our pallet as we are going to keep using it).



Mix that in so that it becomes ever so gradually lighter. Add water so that the paint is thinned down and diluted. Look at the consistency of mine on the plasticard. About the consistency of milk (does that make sense now?).


Ok now apply this to the upper part of the mini, the area you want to blend to a lighter shade. I have photographed the paint when it is still wet so you can see where it was applied.

Drag your brush up away from the join between colours, on that picture, drag brush from left to right so that the seam is as smooth as possible. You will notice a bad difference if you push the paint the other way toward the centre of the blend.

Ok let that stage dry, and mix some more blood red (or your highlight colour) into the mix on your pallet. Keep it diluted to a thin consistency.


It should be ever so slightly lighter.

Ok now apply it in the same way as before, to a smaller area of the mini where it is going to be lighter.

Let it dry.

Add in some more blood red, and even a little blazing orange now into your mix. Add another highlight stage.


Add more blazing orange to the mix and apply to the lightest part.


Ok so now we are done with highlights, we are going to repeat this with the shade colours on the other side of the blend. Mix up some of the fresh midtone on the pallet, mix in a small amount of your shade colour (beastial brown in my case) to darken it slightly.


Let that dry then add in more brown to the mix, keep it diluted. Drag the brush away from the centre of the blend when applying paints.

Add in some scorched brown to the mix now, apply this to the darkest edge of the blend.

You can see here the stages of paint used in the blend, from 1-10 and where they were applied.

Ok on large areas which are difficult to blend (like 1 inch squares of plasticard…. ) you need to glaze at the end to bring all the colours together.
Mix some of your midtone on your pallet with water. Water it to a very thin mix.

See how thin that is? Very thin. That’s how thin.
Now apply this all over your blended area, if it ruins all your work you just spent the last 20 minutes working on … your glaze was too thick. So its better to have a glaze that has too much water in it, than not enough – you can always apply another one afterwards if it was too watery, but you cant take it off if it was too thick.

So now you should have a lovely blended area on your mini. Or if it’s your first attempt at this – a streaky sort of blended area. It takes practise to get it right, so go stretch your legs, get some fresh air and then try again. After about 10 attempts your colour blends will be as smooth as a James Bond chat-up line.



Remember, smaller areas are easier to blend, but larger areas are better to practise with.


Conclusion:
This basically sums up why blending is so awesome. It’s a great skill and with a bit of practise it will become second nature, you will not even realise you are doing it.
It may be slightly more difficult that standard highlights or glazes but its well worth taking the time to become proficient at it.






6
News, Rumours and Trading / W: GW Inquisitor 54mm Stuff
« on: November 24, 2013, 05:20:35 PM »
Emperor knows where out trading board went. Seems it merged with news and rumours? O_o

But anyhow - Im after =][= stuff, have an urge to collect all the inquisitor minis GW did, so after any condition minis :D I have most of the basic ones. Tyrus, Sgt Stone, Artimus, Imperial guardsman.
I have cash, or a mountain of other minis from 40k :P

Thanks
Thantos

8
Hobby / Zealot Miniatures - Blacksmith (The New Renaissance)
« on: July 03, 2013, 02:08:14 PM »
Im after some new ideas for weapon sprues on the store and suddenly have some free time creeping into my life now! :D Put two and two together and we have a 28mm scale blacksmith!

So where do you guys come in? OK, if you have ideas of handheld weapons you want - swords, laser guns, axes, power maces, electro flails, rocket launchers etc etc - post here with ideas, description and a picture or two linked (or homebrew drawing if your handy with the pencil). Ill pick the best few and make some conversion packs for your minis.

What do you get?

Asides from having your ideas made as resin accessories? You get a master cast resin set posted out to you and you get to name the weapons ;D

9
Fluff and Stories / [Group Story] Livin' the Hive-Life
« on: June 18, 2013, 10:15:18 PM »
Something a bit new here, borderline RP but i think its still mainly fiction. A group story written by anyone who wishes to post a section. We will see where the story meanders off to i guess :P
Very simple rules:

* Anyone can post the next segment, no mininum but a max of 1000 words per segment.
You can post directly and spontaniously into the thread with your passage.
You can reserve a post for up to 24 hours by posting *RESERVED* and then edit your post with the written segment later. After 24 hours, reserve is void.

* Make up your own characters / plot / style.
Anything goes, it doesnt matter if you are a semi-pro writer or a 10th grade english student - the aim is to get people involved and not put people off :D

* Keep it in character.
Try and follow the characteristics laid out by others, its best  if a character doesnt turn from bad-ass sarge to mincing pansy!

* Dont be precious.
If someone messes with your fave character's actions- suck it up! Thats life :P - Write the next segment to push the plot the way you want. If someone kills your fave character, introduce a new one or write about another. No complaints in the underhive!

Happy writing and lets see if this stays alive ;)



1843 hours 892.1747 M41. Midhive Necromunda. Dax's Bar.

The one-armed bartender turns and unceremoniously thuds a bottle of brown liquid down on the bar in front of his only customer all day.
 
"That'll be 89 credits son." He thrusts a cred-reader at the youth who lazily scans it, smirking at the quaint notion of paying with credits. Things were different back in the underhive.

Noticing the smile, the bartender frowns. "Something funny, kiddo?" the older man's facial tattoos scrunching around the eyes.

"Credits funny man." The underhive kid states matter-of-factly and scratches at his bright pink hair, it was probably lice again. "You mid-hive bunch are all soft. Credits, jobs, taxes. Wouldn't last two days in the underhive..." he drinks. The crippled bartender shakes his head slowly and sits back on his stool.

"You got it all wrong son. Mid-hive is full of dangers."

The kid snorts while trying to laugh and drink, making him spit over the bar.
"You funny! This is more dangerous than underhive? Underhive has gangs man" he holds his forearm up, showing a gang tattoo like a medal. The bartender doesn’t look impressed, which annoys the kid who then slouches over the bar gulping his drink.

"Let me tell you about mid-hive Necromunda, kiddo. Some people here actually have stuff, credits and shit like that. Think about it, in the underhive, most days it aint worth killing your neighbour. What do you get if you do? Skav-all! A rusty autogun, a pair of boots and a frakked off rival gang looking for you."

"So what, old man?"

"So what if you kill your neighbour in mid-hive? You get a heap of credits, maybe a speeder and some proper tech? Its actually worth killing people here. If you have anything, someone's gonna try to take it and the Arbites dont do shit! Especially dangerous if a gang finds out you have some good gear." The kid perks up with a dull interest.

"How do you know whos got the good tech and speeders then?" he gulps the last from his bottle.

"Thats easy, you gotta have someone who talks to them, gets to know the fattest grox, gets to know them and finds the grox who have the gear. Maybe someone who is also in a gang, so the gang can steal the tech." the bartender rubbed at the stump of his arm.

"Well that sucks man. Coz I couldn’t fool many of you mid-hivers to trust an underhive gang kid like me. Eh! Nice idea though." Pink-hair stands up and tosses the empty bottle back at the bartender who catches it sharply.

"I still think you crazy man," The kid turned to leave. "But you’re all right, for a soft mid-hiver." The door grinds closed behind him.

"And that’s exactly what the fat grox think." mumbles the bartender to himself as he rubs the stump of his arm where there can just be seen the remains of an underhive gang tattoo.


10
Hobby / Dungeon Miniatures
« on: April 24, 2013, 10:56:57 AM »
EDIT: Dwarf



http://www.zealotminiatures.co.uk/shop.php#!/~/category/id=6272031&offset=0&sort=normal

No secret that i love heroquest and other cliche fantasy games ;D And i managed to get a game over easter which was great fut, but what ticks me off is how all the pieces slide over the board with the slightest nudge! Arrgh! Frustration! Plus the scenery in heroquest is dodgy cardboard or detail-less plastic...
So its time to fix this problem and create something quality for the dungeon!

So armed with a graphics tablet and a spare evening, i created a replacement door set. Here are some pics fresh from the printer. (Sorry about the blue tint, camera doesnt like taking photos inside the UV cure box ... my eyes dont like it much either to be honest...)

Closed Door


Open Door


One print artifact at the top of the door >.< dont know why its doing that, think its a hardware problem. Bit ill clean that up once i do a resin master. Ignore the support structure under the door!

Im going to cast these in bronze for that extra weight, and do a rubber lazer cut grip to stick on the bottom of each door (like under your mousemat) so no more slippy doors!

11
News, Rumours and Trading / Alien heads sprue - Male Kadesh
« on: March 28, 2013, 10:36:53 PM »
A new heads sprue, 6 heads in resin, sculpted by yours-chaplain, available www.zealotminiatures.co.uk.   ;D



As an aside, really need to redesign the website some time soon, webdesign is not my fortae, anyone have links, contacts or suggestions?

12
Hobby / Hopper Sculpt WIP (Needs pose and detail)
« on: December 22, 2012, 10:17:36 PM »
EDIT: Done



Hi Ladies and Gents ;D so ive finally found a few hours to sculpt somthing (digitally ofcourse, dont want greenstuff under my fingernails :P)

Working on a "Hopper" which is about 70% done. Thinking of something between a mini trex,  that ghost from ghostbusters, a chaos spawn and a squig. Also its quite a forgiving sculpt, something to ease me back into doing proper organic miniatures stuff again after designing CGI oil rig equipment 9 hours each day for the past 4 months -.- ... and the next 6 months coming atleast...

Feedback on style, posing (still have to pose it!) and sculpt what i can improve with is welcomed.



At the current timescale im working with, should find its way into the webstore around march, probably a few varients so people can create a swarm!

13
News, Rumours and Trading / [NSFW] One for you Bronies!
« on: November 12, 2012, 08:54:39 PM »
Not my thing i might add. But thought id repost these as quite topical for someo f 2S :P Female beastman maybe?...















14
Hobby / Paints count!!!
« on: September 15, 2012, 01:48:43 PM »
So who has the most paints?  :D You can count duplicates if you have more than one, any manufacturer, any type!
Lets see who has the biggest paint addiction, winner gets a free weeks therapy in paint-re-hab! ;)

Add your name to the ongoing list in acending order  ;D


Ill get started with a modest 186 paints and washes  ::) ... and i borrow half my brothers set too from time to time which is like another 100 :S


Thantos 186
...
...
...

15
Enemies of the Imperium / Chaos Marine Numbers
« on: August 28, 2012, 09:38:35 AM »
I read some fiction where it mentioned something aloing the lines of "chaos marines scary, but thank the emperor there are so few of them ".

This got me thinking, how many chaos marines are still out there? Sure, in model terms, there are A LOT of chaos armies. But in the fiction, are chaos marines slowly dying out and unable to replace their losses?

During the Horus Heresy half the legions turn to chaos and join Horus. Now 10,000 years later in the present day (yes, I AM a Chaplain, i live in the 41st millenium and count it as present day!) and chaos marines have been fighting on and off, losing numbers to battling the Imperium, losing to mutation and losing to warring each other.

So how many chaos marines are around now? If you kill one, is that a major loss which cant be replenished? Do they still recruit? And if so, from what populations?

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anything
anything