Mold Lines - Scrape, Cut or File?

[Narric]

Though occured to me while doing some hobby. Near every model comes with mold lines, but there are different ways to handle these mold lines.

Some will cut the mold lines off, others will scrape them off, and then some may file them off. Then there are the strange that do a mix.

Which method do you use with your models? be they plastic, metal or resin. Do you do different methods depending on the material?

Would be interesting to hear what eple have to say on this.
This topic is sparked by an old Blog post by Mantic games: http://manticblog.com/2014/01/30/daves-hobby-tips-episode-2/

[The Man They Call Jayne]

I think it depends where in the model the line falls as to what method I would use. Also how much flash there was. I have had a big chunk of the stuff before, sometimes there is barely a hairline.

[InsaneTD]

I've got one of GW's mold line removers. Best thing I've ever got from them. That said, there are times I cut mold lines off cause there is just so much flash.

[Chris]

I guess you could say I scrape them off... I go at it with a hobby knife, so cutting and scraping are easy!

[Mabbz]

I used to use a simple pair of nail scissors for most things, before eventually switching to some GW clippers. Good for cutting and scraping.

[CoffeeGrunt]

Small Wire strippers and a GW hobby knife for me. Seems to work fine with a bit of work!

[salamut2202]

It depends on the mold line, how big the flash is, etc. I mean some pewter and resin mold lines you cut down to size. If the mold line is along a detail line then just scrape, the line is supposed to be there. If it's along a smooth surface, file - no evidence must remain!

[Sorck]

With significant flash I would certainly want to either clip it off or cut it down with a knife. After that it's a case of filing and sanding. Normally my approach would be as follows:

• Clip off any large lumps
• If there's still a fair bit left, try and get it with a knife
• File with needle file
• Sand with a coarse sand paper
• Sand with a medium sand paper
• Sand with a fine sand paper

I would only do all of the steps on a flat-ish surface though. If it was in a fur patch I would stop no later than the first sand paper because there's no benefit in creating a perfect edge. The file that I use is also dependent on the surface - I use a large flat file (about 10mm wide) to do most of my filing but I have round file to deal with round surfaces and a three-square file when I need to sand in a corner (that being said, a flat file usually has a non-abrasive edge for that purpose).

If it's along a smooth surface, file - no evidence must remain!

Most certainly the case.

[Deraj]

I've got one of GW's mold line removers. Best thing I've ever got from them. That said, there are times I cut mold lines off cause there is just so much flash.

This is their only tool I've bought, the thing is amazingly useful.

[InsaneTD]

I fully agree. I hadn't plan on buying any tools when I'd gone into the store and walked out with it after being able to try it in store. Plus it looks great.

[Deraj]

I did because of watching GW's painting videos. They're great for beginners, but even for skilled painters they still have little useful tidbits.

[Ravager Zero]

It's material dependent. Plastic gets scraped, lead compound metals (yes, they're still used by some companies in 15mm's) get cut with a fresh blade, and pewter & resin get filed. When it comes to tools its just a generic x-acto style knife, with 45º and 30/60º blades. My files are a GF9 diamond file set, and the half round has got to be the most useful thing ever.